Day 9

Having cycled at total of 85 miles with shattered bearings, today was going to be make or break day for the success of Simon's journey. We had tremendous cooperation from the hotel manageress, who had offered to drive John and Simon with the damaged bike to Aurillac, to a specialist bike shop she had spoken to yesterday on our behalf. We asked "are you sure?", and she said "Why, are you afraid". It was only when we were being whisked on our way at over 120 kph on tortuous country lanes, she wasn't kidding! John and I thought of the irony of having an accident in a car, while on a cycling holiday.When Simon picked his bike up to load it in the car, the back wheel fell off! It was now evident that the bearings were so completely seized, that the only reason the wheel was able to turn, was because the retaining nuts had worked loose! Don't try this at home! Our new found friend from the hotel left the charming bicycle repair man in no doubt that our repair was urgent, and should be completed without delay!

As John read his book on the grass on the forecourt, Simon caught up with the blog, as the new wheel was prepared. Within 90 mins, we were taxiied back to our hotel, with a gleaming new wheel fitted. Smiles all round! Peter and Andy set off on todays journey to Estaing at 09.45. After meeting the CTC backup van driver outside the hotel (who we had met on the ferry to Caen), John and Simon finally commenced their ride at 11.15am. Twitchers and Smudgers (Birdwatchers and Photographers), have been known to extend travel times by indulging in these extra pursuits....!! Left to our own devices, we started our extra curricular activities after barely a mile had been consumed. By the time we got to Marcoles, our quest for provisions for lunch had failed, as the locals were busy consuming theirs! We therefore felt fully justified in making full use of L'Auberge du Tour, and nobody was there to disagree. We were the only customers, the barmaid did smile, but you had to look VERY carefully! Beer was very good, sandwich was very good. A couple of essential phone calls were made, by which time we couldn't remember if the beer was any good....it would have been impolite not to have made sure...so we did!

A stroll round the fascinating medieval village completed our lunch hour, and we continued on our way. John's enthusiasm for spotting interesting birds and some stunning Orchids, gave Simon some new subject matter for his image making. We were becoming increasingly aware that that we had travelled very few of the 57 miles required today, and it was now unlikely we would arrive in Estaing before 7pm. We had two serious climbs today, one up to Mamet, and then a slightly smaller one up to Morales. Lacapelle had an alpine feel to it's landscape and local buildings. We had a gentle ride through lush countryside, past woods, grazing and cultivation. After a swift, snaking descent to the bridge over the river, there was a long hard climb up to Mamet. The highlight of the day was a breeze of a descent, as fast as we dared, for the five miles down to the river, Le Lot. We followed the river on a road that seemed to defy the laws of physics, as the gradient almost felt as though we were going downhill, but we were in fact gently climbing. This 20 mile stretch took us through the magnificent Gorge du Lot, bristling with inspirational sights to photograph. After a break for a refreshing oringina at Viellevie, Simon and John arrived in Estaing at 7pm, just half an hour after Peter and Andy. The waitress decided what we were having to eat for supper, but it was a good choice and we had a very good evening.